This case has an oil drain plug, however all other oiling holes are only center drilled since it is now a popular belief that the OEM design of running your engine oil over your clutch plates and primary chain would cause needless damage. You will have to switch to wet /dry aftermarket clutch plates and follow aftermarket mfg. recommendation for a light oil. Plug the hoses which were leading to and from the chain case. The front 2 outside bolts which bolt to the engine are now too short, our cases are another .280 THICKER. We suggest you run a tap all the way to the bottom of these holes to get clean threads and use as long of a bolt as you can, then washers on the out side to take up the difference.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO LOOSEN THE 5 BOTTOM TRANSMISSION BOLTS BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE CHAIN CASE, AND TIGHTEN THESE LAST OF ALL!

FAILURE TO DO THIS MAY LEAD TO DISTORTION OR DAMAGE TO YOUR ENGINE CASE.

We have machined a rectangle to accept the silly and stupid steel oil deflector plate. The square hole will help provide for a better seal and allow you to have something to glue the plate to, rather than depend on those stupid pins.

The 4 side transmission studs are o.k. even though our chain case is another. 175 thicker at the washer surface and .250 thicker around the bearing than OEM.

The 4 - 5/16 dia. Engine mount holes and the 4 - 3/8 dia Transmount holes are drilled SMALLER than OEM. We left them small for strength. In the event you have trouble getting them all to line up, slot with a round file.

The starter mount area on the back of the chaincase is threaded for 2 - 1/4" studs as used on all pre-1978. If your starter motor housing is later, then it is threaded on the front hole to receive a bolt instead of a stud from the chaincase. While it is kind of awkward to get the nut on that front stud, if you use a flex extension for your socket and grease the nut and washer together in the socket it's easier than wrestling with the gasket, steel oil deflector plate, the pins, and the starter motor. If you choose to use the studs you will need to drill out the threads on the starter housing. If you are a good juggler, then drill out our beautiful virgin chaincase....

That "rough" finish on the inside and outside is shot peening which distresses the surface to prevent cracks. This surface is created in a special machine which "throws" hardened steel BB's at a high rate of speed into the surface of the casing. No air is used in our shot peening operations

You have by now noticed our chain is much heavier throughout than any other. This extra metal will help your primary run quieter by dampening the sound and maintaining alignments.